{at the shops : sarah brown jewellery | jewellery inspired by scotland}

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. . . with thoughts still lingering on the sandy shores of bora bora, it is no surprise that, on this late-winter day, drawn to the sea-inspired creations of jeweller, sarah brown, whose irregular and beautiful compositions, woven together of island legends and tales of creatures beneath the sea, come together in collections of enchanting, evocative pieces drenched in a sense of curiosity and the unknown . . .

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{at the shops: kora | nairobi, kenya}

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. . . fair-trade, eco-chic and utterly gorgeous, the kora jewelry range was created by amy walker & maxandra short three years ago, after working for a non-profit group in rwanda; made of recycled materials such as discarded cow bones and horns, brass and aluminum from old pots and automobiles, the range is made by local artisans from nairobi, kenya -- there are necklaces and charm bracelets as well, but have quite fallen for the cuffs and bangles . . .

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shown, above: diamond brass cuffs, handmade from recycled brass // horn lily cuff, handmade ankole cow horn bangle bracelet wrapped in recyled brass, handmade in kenya and ghana & available in white bone


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{p.s.} previous at the shops:
* gildem, california
* gemma redux, new york
* morning calm, south korea
* loom, australia
* florence & florence, uk
* lady grey, new york
* ralph lauren, paris
* neology by mina, brooklyn
* always glamorous gold

{work of art: briar wood bracelets lined in silver}

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. . . and while on the topic of perfect juxtapositions, these briar root bracelets lined in silver, by chicago-based metalsmith, gillion carrara, combine natural and industrial elements, and are so stunning, they are works of art . . .




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a l i t t l e m o r e a b o u t t h e d e s i g n e r

carrara's work explores the relationship between materials, design and function, often appropriating materials that evoke specific responses based on cultural and psychological associations: bone, horn, shell, antler, and various woods and briar root, combined with precious metals: silver, bronze and gold; materials are selected from as far away as tuscany, africa, south america and india, as well as the western and midwestern united states


{image: gillion carrara via n'east style}

{favourite five: jewelry designer cc skye}

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Often, accessories are added afterward, to accentuate outfits, adding glimmering touches here and there. In the case of LA-based CC Skye, however, the accessories she designs do not merely accent outfits, but rather, create them.

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Unlike most fashion lines that are influenced by big cities like New York or Paris, CC Skye was born out of a six-month study abroad program that the designer did in Nepal. Traveling only with a backpack containing the bare essentials, CC, a true LA Girl at heart, missed the fashions she would find in the pages of Vogue while living in Kathmandu.

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After some time, she decided to trade in her hiking boots and ended up in the silk stalls of Kathmandu, buying silk used for Tibetan Temples to make dresses with the help of local seamstresses, and started to work with gems and metals . . .

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According to the designer, "...living in Nepal made me stop and learn how to to create my vision with my hands and use my resources rather than just go out and buy something, which is what we are all so used to doing in a consumer-based culture. It [Nepal] was a self-sustained culture in which you grew your own food, made your own utensils out of bamboo or wood, and ultimately, you made your own spring wardrobe".

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CC Skye, who has been called "consistently ahead of the trends" by Women's Wear Daily, merges uptown sophistication with downtown glamour in her jewelry and handbag collection. A favourite of the most fashionable celebrities, including Eva Mendes and Nicole Richie, CC Skye's line was nominated for Best New Accessory Designer by GEN ART.

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This week, we ask the designer:

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{What are the top five ways you stay ahead of trends?}

1. Knowing trends is instinctual. I like to think some people are great at picking stocks, others are great at predicting trends. I've had an innate instinct since I was very young. Perhaps that was because I had a very fashion-forward mother who always had the latest trends in the 70's and 80's. I grew up in a big city and although I longed to live in the suburbs and climb trees, Barneys was my backyard.

2. Timing is everything. I found out early that you cannot be too ahead of the trends as you must connect to your customers.

3. Timing in fashion is everything. The magazines are not always correct about what the public wants and you have to be rather intuitive about what is good for the street versus the runway and be able to balance the two.

4. There is a constant play on opposites in the forming of trends and being aware of that is important. Years ago it was bohemian-based and then suddenly all skulls and rock n' roll! One season handbags are structured and almost immediately the next season they’re slouchy. There has even been correlations with the stock market in trend research. They say that when mini skirts are in, the stock market rises, and when long skirts are in, the market drops. I recall when the recession hit, we were unintentionally designing jewelry inspired by Art Deco in the 1930’s.

5. In the end, I think it comes down to finding styles or colors you love, exploring them, and reinventing ways to make it a part of your brand’s personality.

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p r e v i o u s f a v o u r i t e f i v e s :

* photographer: debi treloar
* painter: janet hill
* jewelry designer: suzie gallehugh

* artist: michelle armas
* jewelry designers: megan & moira flynn
* actress & writer: shiva rose
* jeweler: camille eddera
* artist: kimia kline
* actress & fashion muse: chloë sevigny
* floral stylist, part 1: denise porcaro
* floral stylist, part 2: denise porcaro
* fashion photographer & illustrator: garance doré
* interior designer & architect: nina freudenberger
* entrepreneurs: rent the runway
* designer: rachel ashwell
* interior designer: tricia foley
* photographer: romina shama
* food editor & author: donna hay

~ laily

{favourite five: jewelry designer suzie gallehugh}

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In ancient history, glittering gemstones were thought to have enchanting powers to heal. Although gems were rare, they were precious because of the powers they were believed to have imparted to those who wore them, and kings and queens had gems set into their crowns in order to obtain their potency.

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The mystifying qualities of gemstones do not only lie in their healing powers, but also in the ravishing beauty they exhibit. Opening a gift box to find glimmering jewels can sweep one away into a dream world befitting a monarch and make one feel like royalty in just an instant.

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Suzanna Dai, the jewelry line of Suzie Gallehugh, takes the elegant and timeless jewels once reserved for queens and princesses and transforms them by adding a modern flair. With intricate embellishments and regal antique touches, Suzanna Dai jewelry takes a ride through history -- the glittering emeralds in the Jaipur Collar necklace may evoke an empress looking out her window at the Taj Mahal in the 1600s; the smoky topaz and shining black diamonds in the Windsor collection may sweep one away to a state dinner at Buckingham Palace; and the bold and breathtaking marriage of turquoise blues and greens in the Amalfi cuff draws from mosaics in ancient ruins in its namesake coast off Italy. It is clear, Suzie Gallehugh’s greatest influence in creating her pieces comes from the magnificent beauty of the world and its cultures.

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Her sparkling collections, that have adorned the likes of model Elizabeth Hurley and is a favourite in the wardrobe department on the set of Gossip Girl {above}, can be found in luxury department stores like Henri Bendel on Fifth Avenue in New York City.

As Suzie continues to jet-set the world over searching for the most exquisite gems, we were delighted to catch up with her and find out:

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{top five 5 favorite gems:}

1. green tourmaline
Green is my favorite color, and this particular stone comes in a shade of olive/apple green that I really love. My parents bought me a green tourmaline as a college graduation gift, and it is my favorite ring. I could just stare at the myriad shades of green in it forever.

2. freshwater pearls
In a way, I like these better than real pearls because of their imperfect shape, and they come in a variety of soft iridescent colors that can light up anyone's face. I have a strand in a shade of greyish lilac that is a great neutral and coordinates with most anything.

3. labradorite
I love this gem because of its opalescent glow. At first glance, it looks like a boring grey stone, but when you catch it in the light, it suddenly starts to glow in shades of indigo, turquoise, green, and yellow. I like it because it's so unexpected. I use labradorite beads in my Kathmandu collection.

4. pyrite
Pyrite is also known as Fool's Gold, but it's so sparkly and rich, that I don't care! It looks really cool when it's just a rough rock - it has a dull gunmetal glitter about it. It's really amazing when it's polished, though. It sparkles like hematite, but has a warmer, slightly yellow cast to it. I'd like to have a pyrite ring.

5. alexandrite

This is a really cool stone, which also happens to be my birthstone. Like the other stones on my list, Alexandrite isn't what it seems to be at first. In natural sunlight, it has a purplish-indigo glow, but under other types of lighting, it transforms into a purplish-pink. Sometimes it even glows greenish-purple. It's a very rare stone, and is therefore quite expensive. One day I'd like to add one to my collection.

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p r e v i o u s
f a v o u r i t e f i v e s :

* artist: michelle armas
* jewelry designers: megan & moira flynn
* actress & writer: shiva rose
* jeweler: camille eddera
* artist: kimia kline
* actress & fashion muse: chloë sevigny
* floral stylist, part 1: denise porcaro
* floral stylist, part 2: denise porcaro
* fashion photographer & illustrator: garance doré
* interior designer & architect: nina freudenberger
* entrepreneurs: rent the runway
* designer: rachel ashwell
* interior designer: tricia foley
* photographer: romina shama
* food editor & author: donna hay

~ laily

{favourite five: the jewelry designers at m.flynn}

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Jewelry is made by creating bonds: melding precious metal and stringing luxurious pearls, jewels and gems, melting pieces of glittering gold; but the most important bonds are not made with jewelry, but through it -- the bonds between people that a piece of jewelry can create are eternal.

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M.Flynn creates the kind of jewelry that memories are made of, whether the bracelet that glistens in the summer moonlight on a stroll after a first date, the sparkling crystal earrings that glitter in photographs from a best friend’s wedding, the necklace that marks a first anniversary, or the the ring that is passed down to a granddaughter.

Elizabeth Taylor, who owned one of the most admired jewelry collections in history, once said, “My pieces of jewelry are my most cherished stories about a lifetime of fun and love and laughter.” Memories can be made of the details--after all, it is all in the details . . .

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The savvy duo that makes up M.Flynn is comprised of Megan and Moira Flynn, two sisters with a passion for jewelry who got their starts studying business and marketing. Turning their passion into a business, Megan and Moira recently opened a boutique {second from top} in Boston's South End neighborhood to showcase their enchanting designs.

From their chandelier tiered drop necklaces to their antique Swarovski flower earrings, each charming and elegant piece is made with the utmost attention to detail. Their special occasion accessories line, faire la fête, (French for "to party") features the perfect accessories for weddings, galas, balls and soirées.

Along with their own designs, Megan and Moria re-create timeless pieces from their grandmother's expansive costume collection and also re-work antique heirloom jewelry.


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This week, in a special two-part Favourite Five feature, Moria and Megan each share with us:

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{the top five ways a background in business can contribute to artistic endeavors:}


For Moria, the top five ways working in banking & attending business school has influenced the jewelry-making process and the creation of their business:

1. I worked at the bank during the Argentine economic crisis -- it was an extreme circumstance, but it made me realize that things can change quickly and that being flexible is important. With business we realize that we may need to change or adjust our model every once in a while.

2. Sloan [business school] taught me how to analyze a balance sheet and income statement.

3. Our style is timeless and easy-to-wear. Business school taught me that you don't need to chase trends in order to be relevant. We stay true to our customers and set ourselves apart with high quality and customer service.

4. Our operational budget is always a work in progress -- we are small but we know it is important to keep overhead and production low.

5. Argentina is known for their classic, sophisticated style, which has always influenced our design.


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For Megan, the top five ways working in marketing & receiving an Master of Science degree have influenced the jewelry-making process and the creation of their business:

1.
We realize that we can be creative, but school taught me that we ultimately need to make things with our customer top-of-mind.

2.
Writing was a focus of my program at Medill and is the most-valuable skill a person can have . . . well, Math is important too. Every day we need to write our customers and potential customers in an effective, concise way.

3.
Communication is changing so quickly, but I think I have learned that picking up the phone or talking face-to-face is incredibly important and will never be replaced by email, Facebook or Twitter. My first job in PR made me pick up a phone and forced me to sell my clients to editors who didn't want to hear from me. When you own a business you need to put yourself on the line every day. I force my employees to use the phone -- they don't like it but I feel it's important to be direct.

4.
Measure, measure, measure. Every piece of communication should be measured. We are still working on this, but today's direct marketing programs make it easy to track your effectiveness. Even a small business can evaluate an email campaign.

5.
Success in fashion is about skill, a good marketing plan and doing the math to see if you can afford it all.


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p r e v i o u s
f a v o u r i t e f i v e s :

* actress & writer: shiva rose
* jeweler: camille eddera
* artist: kimia kline
* actress & fashion muse: chloë sevigny
* floral stylist, part 1: denise porcaro
* floral stylist, part 2: denise porcaro
* fashion photographer & illustrator: garance doré

* interior designer & architect: nina freudenberger
* entrepreneurs: rent the runway
* designer: rachel ashwell
* interior designer: tricia foley
* photographer: romina shama
* food editor & author: donna hay

~ laily



{all images created by this is glamorous from M.Flynn}

{at the shops: nallik by jean balke, new york}

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. . . always adore a perfect juxtaposition -- vintage & modern, old & new, simple & ornate -- and what could be better than rough-hewn, natural elements paired with delicate chains and glamorous gold?

nallik, a word borrowed from the inuit language, cannot be translated directly, but means protection and nurturing in a loving way; according to designer jean balke, the "Inuit people appreciate that we are all connected to each other and our surroundings. They respect the environment and know it contains everything we need to live."

balke, who grew up in germany, lived in helsinki, london and san diego, currently resides in nyc;
before she began designing jewelry, she worked as a photographer and art director, and has travelled to over 45 countries, drawing inspiration from the people and landscapes she has experienced along the way; the result is this utterly perfect mix of rock & refined . . .

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{p.s.} previous at the shops:
* florence & florence, uk
* lady grey, new york
* ralph lauren, paris
* neology by mina, brooklyn
* mrs. press, australia



{all images from nallik}

{countdown to the royal wedding: tiaras}

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. . . an utter and hopeless romantic, there is, naturally, much breathless anticipation for the royal wedding -- after all -- what could possibly be more romantic than sweeping trains, yards and yards of silk taffeta, balcony kisses, true love and tiaras?


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. . . to mark this historical occasion, kate middleton will be presented with her very own tiara, from the royal collection, as was the case with diana, or purchased from garrard, the royal jewellers, as was the case for the duchess of york . . . and so, a fascinating glimpse . . .


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the beautiful swirls & scrolls of the spencer tiara

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the spencer tiara

although she received the cambridge lovers knot tiara {see below} for her wedding, princess diana famously wore
the spencer tiara as her something borrowed on her wedding day in 1981; made of gold in a repeating scroll design the family tiara is entirely set with diamonds; thought to be a family heirloom from the eighteenth century, the tiara is actually a composite of several elements: the central element was a gift from lady sarah spencer to cynthia, viscountess althorpe as a wedding present in 1919

it was later remounted and four other elements were made to match it in 1937; only the two elements at the end are old and said to have come from a tiara owned by francis, viscountess montagu and left to lady sarah spencer in 1875


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after it was worn by lady diana spencer when she married the prince of wales in 1981, the spencer tiara was subsequently worn by victoria lockwood when she married the 9th earl in 1989 (the earl spencer); the tiara currently remains with the spencer family

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princess diana attends a state reception in australia, wearing a suite of sapphire and diamond jewels presented by the crown prince of saudi arabia, and the spencer family tiara; (photography by tim graham)

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the cambridge lovers knot tiara
made in 1911 for queen mary {the queen consort & wife of george v}, from the diamonds and pearls she held in her collection, the cambridge lovers knot tiara was a copy of one owned by her grandmother, princess augusta of hesse; queen mary left it to her granddaughter, queen elizabeth II, in her will in 1953; the queen wore it a few times in the fifties, then gave the tiara to princess diana as a wedding present in 1981; although the princess did not wear it to her wedding, she debuted it during the opening of parliament that november

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above: diana, princess of wales, wearing the cambridge lovers knot in new zealand, april 1983

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above: the diamond & pearl tiara perfectly paired with a pearl-encrusted white gown and matching jacket by catherine walker

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above: camilla, duchess of cornwall {formerly camilla parker bowles}, the queen, and diana, wearing the cambridge lovers knot tiara

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helen molesworth, a christie's specialist, holds the antique poltimore tiara from the princess margaret collection before auction in hong kong, friday may 26, 2006; (photography by kin cheung/ap)

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the royal wedding of princess margaret and anthony armstrong-jones, lord snowdon, may 6, 1960

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the poltimore tiara
"Acquired on the advice of Patrick Plunkett, Deputy Master of the Household, before the official announcement of her engagement to Mr Antony Armstrong-Jones, the tiara had originally been created by Garrard in the 1870s for Florence, Lady Poltimore, the wife of the second Baron Poltimore.

The Princess wore the tiara in its form as a stunning diamond fringe necklace and scroll brooches on several occasions prior to her marriage; yet it was arriving at Westminster Abbey by horse-drawn carriage on 6th May 1960, with the Poltimore Tiara holding her veil in place as a circlet of diamonds around her hair, that Princess Margaret fulfilled an image that was the epitome of the fairytale princess."

~ helen molesworth, christie's


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. . . the princess, who died in february of 2002, wore it for her wedding to anthony armstrong-jones, lord snowdon; t
he children of the late princess, viscount linley and lady sarah chatto, sold the tiara and other items at an auction at christie's {to offset the pinch of inheritance taxes} in 2006 for $1,704,576, much more than its estimate of $276,000 - $368,000


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like many of the tiaras in the royal family, the poltimore tiara was seen in several alternative forms such as a diamond fringe necklace and as brooches; the tiara can be converted into a necklace and eleven brooches, and was offered with a screwdriver and the brooch fittings required to make the switch

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the nizam of hyderabad tiara
a flourish of delicate english roses, the nizam of hyderabad tiara was crafted by cartier and formed part of a parure that was given to queen elizabeth II on the occasion of her wedding in 1947 by the nizam of hyderabad; according to leslie feld's the jewels of queen elizabeth II, this tiara was dismantled and the diamonds used for the creation of the queen's burmese ruby tiara in 1973; however, the three large roses that can be used as brooches have been seen in recent years, creating much speculation and mystery surrounding the piece . . .


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the grand duchess vladimir tiara
laden with round brilliant-cut diamonds, the grand duchess vladimir tiara was inherited by the queen, from her grandmother, queen Mary, after her death in 1953; the tiara gets its name from grand duchess maria pavlovna of russia, wife of the grand duke vladimir alexandrovich, the third son of czar alexander II, and the brother of czar alexander III of russia

following the 1917 bolshevik revolution of russia, the grand duchess vladimir escaped to venice with her family, leaving her renown jewelry collection, including the tiara, behind, hidden in a vault in the vladimir palace in st. petersburg; a member of britain's secret intelligence service, and a friend of the family, helped to recover the jewels; the duchess died soon after, in august 1920; the vladimir tiara was purchased by queen mary in 1921, from princess nicolas of freece, the daughter of duchess maria vladimir

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the original setting of the tiara at the time of its purchase in 1921, by queen mary, was with swinging pearl drops or pendants with small diamond set mounts, positioned inside each circle . . .

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above: the queen, with prince phillip, wearing the vladimir tiara with emerald drops & inset: camilla, duchess of cornwallwears the tiara with the matching emerald suite, the cambridge and delhi durbar parure


. . . but queen mary, who was renowned for her collection of royal jewels, and had an intimate knowledge of jewelry and their designing, modified the vladimir tiara to make provision for the pearl drops to be interchanged with emerald drops, requesting the court jewelers garrard & co. to cut and polish fifteen of her remaining cambridge emeralds as drop shaped emeralds; the tiara was especially striking when worn with the matching emerald suite, the cambridge and delhi durbar parure

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above:
princess anne borrowed this elegant tiara from the queen for a tour of australia & new zealand in 1970

the scroll diamond tiara
also known as the
queen mother's scroll tiara, it was one of a handful of tiaras that the queen mother wore after she was married but before she ascended the throne in 1937; she then passed the scroll diamond tiara to the queen, who has never worn it publicly, but over the years, has lent to both princess margaret and princess anne

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girls of great britain and ireland tiara
a wedding present for princess may of teck (the future queen mary) from the ‘girls of great britain and ireland’, the diamond tiara was purchased from garrard with money raised by a committee chaired by lady eve greville; in 1947, mary gave the diamond and silver tiara to her granddaughter, the future queen elizabeth II, as a wedding present

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a portrait of the queen wearing the girls of great britain and ireland tiara, designed by arnold machin, has appeared on many commonwealth currencies, including those of britain, australia, jamaica, canada and ceylon

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{p.s.} it has been thought that kate may wear the
the queen mother's george III tiara, (also known as the russian fringe tiara), a circlet incorporating brilliant diamonds that were formerly owned by george III; originally commissioned in 1830, the tiara has since been worn by many queens consort; when queen elizabeth {the queen mother}, consort of george VI, first wore the tiara, sir henry "chips" channon called it 'an ugly spiked tiara'; queen elizabeth later loaned it to her daughter, princess elizabeth {the future elizabeth II}, as "something borrowed" for her wedding in 1947 to to prince philip in westminster abbey; the queen mother later also loaned it to her granddaughter, princess anne for her marriage to captain mark phillips in 1973

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{prince william and kate middleton photographed mark cuthbert / press association; the spencer tiara history via marilyn's royal blog; all other sources: one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve, thirteen, fourteen}